Garment firms in Kenya are characterized by differences in production patterns. Some firms engage in the full range production activities. Others, especially some of the large exporters, are “cut-make and trim” (CMT) contractors. One respondent in this study described these firms as “glorified tailors”. These firms are located within global commodity chains, which are characteristic of the global trade in garment production and retailing. Retail chains in developed country markets contract developing country firms to manufacture garments on their behalf. The retail chains provide the designs and raw materials required in production. The local firms cut and stitch the required garments which are then shipped to developed country’ markets. Table 1 shows the performance of firms in the EPZ between 1999 and 2001. In 1999 there were only five firms but the number of firms increased in 2001 to 17. The value of exports also increased from Ksh. 1.9 million in 1999 to 4.2 million in 2001. Table 1: Exports, Investment, and Employment in EPZ Garment Firms, 1999-2001 1999 2000 2001 5 6 17 Exports (Ksh) millions 1.8 2.9 4.3 Investment (Ksh) millions 0.7 1.2 3.8 4,349 5,565 12,002 No. of firms No. of employees Source: EPZA 2001 The growth in exports has followed the recent enactment of the US government’s Africa Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which allows duty-free imports of many items from qualifying African countries in the American market. Regional exports are also being boosted by Kenya’s membership in the East African Community (EAC) and the Common Market of Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA). 7